About Us

Short History

The early history of needles is shrouded in obscurity. Stone Age people used bone awls to pierce skins for thronging, and later an eye was developed in the awl to hold the thread and draw it through the hole as that was made. In the Bronze and Iron Ages metal needles appeared and different forms were evolved for various tasks and many of these, as well as those of the Medieval period, have survived practically unchanged.

Despite the apparent unsuitability of iron needles, for they rusted quickly and were brittle, fine needles must have been available for embroidery such as the Bayeux Tapestry and the later splendid copes and vestments of Opus Anglicanum. Very little is known about needlemaking in Medieval England. Probably local blacksmiths or whitesmiths (workers in tin) supplied the needs of their neighbourhoods, for there is no evidence of guild organisation even in London, though we can surmise that there was a group of needlemakers in the City by the beginning of the 16th century, since there was a Needlers’ Lane then.

Towards the close of the Middle Ages the manufacture of strong steel developed particularly in centres like Toledo and Nuremberg. From this steel fine wire could be drawn producing stronger and more flexible needles. The supply of these for the English market seems to have been dominated at first by German merchants until 1563 when the Importation Act attempted to check this trade.

Even in Tudor times it is difficult to establish what was actually happening. It is probable that foreign craftsmen settled as needlemakers here to fulfil the demand for these improved needles, two names that appear at this time were Christopher King and Elias Kraus, the latter apparently from Aachen. Small groups established themselves in the provinces as well, for example in Chichester, in Long Crendon and in the English Midlands, around Studley and Redditch.

By the late 16th and early 17th centuries needlemaking was carried out in various areas of London. Many workshops were to be found in the buildings on London Bridge and around the bridgeheads, others were on the outskirts of the City, particularly Whitechapel, but the craft was still not organised on a guild basis.

Nevertheless, it was a rule of the City that all who wished to trade or manufacture within its limits had to be Freemen of the City and one qualification for that was the freedom of a livery company, so we find needlemakers joining many companies including the Blacksmiths, the Drapers, the Merchant Taylors, the Dyers, the Tallow Chandlers and the Ironmongers, in order to gain the Freedom of the City. However, this was not entirely satisfactory for they were in a minority in these Companies and it was impossible to control the quality of workmanship or materials, to restrict the number of apprentices or the importation of needles from abroad.

After various attempts to regulate matters through the Blacksmiths had failed, one John Hobcroft and his fellow needlemakers banded together, collected enough money, and petitioned the Lord Mayor and the Court of Alderman that they might form a company of their own.

This was when Oliver Cromwell was Lord Protector, and it was he who granted the Letters Patent of 10 November 1656 which incorporated (ie created) the Needlemakers. This Company and the Framework Knitters, are the only two City Companies to have a Cromwellian foundation.

The Byelaws or Ordinances which set out the detailed regulations were not approved until 8 May 1658 but they still named as Master and Wardens the men so noted in the Letters Patent: John Hobcroft, Matthew Chantrell and John Potter.

In 1660 the monarchy was restored and the Needlemakers prudently sought new instruments of incorporation. Charles II granted Letters Patent on 9 February 1664 and the new Byelaws were approved by the Court of Aldermen on 20 June of the same year. The Master now named was Matthew Chantrell, the Wardens John Shipman and William Watts. These instruments of 1664 still govern the Company. Both of the original Charters are held in the Guildhall Library where they may be inspected.

Basically the two sets of documents do not differ to any great degree. The Needlemakers were incorporated, they had the right of assembly and of electing annually a Master and two Wardens from a Court of twelve Assistants drawn from the body of Freemen. There was to be a Clerk and a Beadle to carry out the decisions of the Master and Wardens and of the Court, and both men were to serve for life or during good behaviour. The former was to keep the Minutes of the Court and to look after the records.

The craft was organised on very strict guild lines and a real effort was made to establish a firm industrial structure. The Company was granted the right of search, within certain limits of the City, for needles and materials of inferior workmanship and of destroying any such goods found.

The Freedom of the Company could be obtained in different ways:

by servitude as an apprentice
by redemption on payment of a larger fee or fine, or
by patrimony, that is by right of a father who was a Freeman of the Company.

Apprentices were to be bound for seven years to a Freeman of the Company. Only the Master and the Wardens could bind two apprentices at any one time, other Freemen were restricted to one. The Freedom was open to both men and women but some restrictions were placed on the latter.

There was to be no hawking of needles in the streets or in alehouses. Fines could be levied for any breach of the regulations and all members were to pay quarterage, to be collected by the Beadle. Both sets of the Byelaws have decorated margins on the first membrane or skin, and both show the Arms of the company, a blue shield with the three crowned needles but without the supporters.

Though the Company was given the right to have a Livery no attempt was made to take this up until 1712 when the Company, on petitioning the Lord Mayor and the Court of Aldermen, was allowed to have a Livery of 50 and the right for the Livery of voting for the City’s Members of Parliament.

Though the Letters Patent of 1664 granted the Company these rights only in the City of London and within a limit of 10 miles of its boundaries, the Company tried to exercise its jurisdiction in the provinces. They had some success in Chichester and to a lesser extent in Redditch and Studley. However, by the early 18th century the expanding needle industry of the Midlands had rejected the Londoners' control.

While they prospered the industry in London declined and the Company's fortunes fell. The holding of searches lapsed and the membership shrank. Surprisingly, in the last quarter of the century the numbers began to grow again but the new liverymen were not drawn from the needle industry: they came from many trades and crafts, men eager to gain the right to do business in the City and to have the Parliamentary franchise.

This renewed prosperity of the Company did not last much beyond the 1820’s, and a new period of decline and poverty set in. After the Reform Act of 1832 there was a devaluation of the Livery's Parliamentary franchise. There was also a gradual removal of restrictions of trade and business in the City and the Freedom was no longer necessary. Fewer people applied for admission and when Assistants died their places on the Court were left vacant. Between 1856 and 1873 there were three new freemen of whom only two became Liverymen and for several years there were only three Assistants capable of holding offices.

In October 1873 the Company appeared to be on the verge of extinction, when the Clerk reported that nineteen men had applied for admission to the Company. Politicians, professional men and businessmen, they wished to take part in City matters. Many more followed and by June 1875 the Livery was granted an increase to 200. (Later it was further extended to 250, the current number allowed.)

The revived Company quickly established good relations with the needle industry in the Midlands and in 1876 a ceremonial visit was paid to Redditch. The practice began of awarding prizes for new inventions in tool making and machine processing though not at first on a regular basis. Within the City of London the Company set out to encourage education particularly in technical aspects, and it supported the City and Guilds of London Institute from its beginning, as well as for many years providing scholarships or exhibitions at the City of London Schools. As its charitable interests had grown a new charitable trust was set up in 1983.

The links with Redditch have been maintained. Courts have been held there on several occasions and in 1983 members of the Company were present when HM The Queen opened the Needlemakers Museum at Forge Mill.

Not only are prizes given to young people in the industry but also for skill in the use of the needle in knitting and embroidery. When Courts have been held at Redditch certificates of proficiency have been awarded for long service in the industry and several needlemakers have been made honorary Freemen.

Since the revival many distinguished men have joined the Company. One of the most interesting connections has been with the Royal Family. HSH The Duke of Teck, who had married Princess Mary of Cambridge, was Master in 1896. Both his wife and his daughter. Princess May of Teck, later HM Queen Mary (married to King George V), were made honorary Freemen. In December 1919 his grandson HRH Prince Albert, later King George VI, was admitted to the Company.

Though in the 19th and 20th centuries the Needlemakers had several honorary Freemen who were women, and though throughout its history up to 1873 there were always widows and spinsters who were ordinary Freemen, it was not until July 1982 that the first lady was admitted to the Livery.

The Company is not wealthy and has never had its own Hall. For many years Courts were held in a chamber in Guildhall and then in various City taverns or in the Clerk's offices. The custom of Livery dinners has persisted throughout the Company's history except in times of poverty but it was only in the 20th century that the holding of Ladies Nights became established.

The first Church service to be held in conjunction with the Election Court was in October 1931 and a few years later the Company began its association with a Territorial unit linked with the City of London. (For details on these associations please see Livery Church and Affiliated Regiment.)

Though the three needles and coronets had been used since 1658 and the supporters, Adam and Eve, since about 1700, the Company did not obtain a Grant of Arms from the College of Heralds until 1986.

Adam and Eve first appear on the head of the Beadle's staff and on several pieces of plate purchased at the beginning of the 18th century. These are the three silver tankards, the two pulley salts and the two trencher salts. The rest of the plate has been given by members of the Company, for example, the silver cup and cover of William Nicholson, Sheriff in 1781, and the gilt rose water dish and ewer presented by Thomas King, the Clerk, to mark 38 years of service. Several pieces were donated to mark the accession and coronation of HM The Queen in 1952/53.

Deputy Sir Michael Snyder, Master in 2006, the year of the 350th Anniversary, presented a contemporary loving cup to mark the occasion. The most recent acquisition is a rose water dish presented by Past Master Ronald Hadley in 2007.

Having celebrated the 350th anniversary of the original charter in 2006 minds are turning now to a celebration of the 350th anniversary of the granting of the Royal Charter which will fall in 2014.

[This short history was written originally by MV Stokes during her time as Honorary Archivist. It has been edited and updated by PR Grant, Clerk.]

Histories: there are two in Guildhall Library:

1. The Worshipful Company of Needlemakers MDCCCLXXIV.
2. The Worshipful Company of Needlemakers 1656-2006: a Commemoration of 350 years. Edited by DJdeC Henshaw, Honorary Archivist.